MT75 gearbox , little help please

[redeemer]

Today had an hour free and went into the garage and cut a 46mm socket (I bought it EUR 30 ) and welded a piec of pipe and worked!

I had removed the big sirclip after the big nut in the bell house but before I gave my try to open it up I 'l ask some questions:
-The alen key bolts , those two near the gear lever mounting and another on the side canot be cut loose not even by an air impact If I have to heat the aluminium casing should I be making a mistake??

-Can somone explain roughly how can I open the box so not to make any damage? That is, by a puller clamping it from the output shaft and back casing? or should it come loose on its own after removing all the bits and bobs? Any sugestions would be graetly apreciated

[Squeeljunker]

On the subject of an MT75 Gearbox, I've just found an Early MK3 with a 2.5D Engine, I think it's about 1988-89. I haven't managed to inspect it yet as it's in a field along the road from my house, but I know the van and it used to run well. Would the gearbox in this fit my 2.0L Pinto if I took all the parts, ie adaptor plate etc etc etc or does it need to come off a petrol MK3? I want to keep it petrol as I can tune it to give a LOT more power as my wife doesn't want a Diesel. As you can tell I know nothing about Transits only how to tune Pintos.

Your assistance is much appreciated.

[redeemer]

Well today I had time and went to do something..
After strugling withe the three alen key bolts They only came out when I heated the aluminium casing around them and the bolt istelf - they got loose by a tiny force
I have tried to open it from the back case but no sucess , iit only came apart when I hamered on the front /input shaft , and it finaly came apart






What do you think of the theet , for me they are new!


And this is what I found in the bottom of the box After wiping it it turned out to be a magnet Is it there to attract the iron filings of the wear and tear of gears? Never seen this in old boxes

Now one more thing :
How can the selector forks be removed?
Il try to figure thet out tomorow but any advice would be apreciated.

[redeemer]

well finaly I had some time and removed the selectors forks and was able to take the whole g box in parts.
Now I have ordered a main shaft bearing that fit right after the 4th gear, and spigot bearing that fits in the rear of the crank shaft from http://www.transmission-rebuild-kits.co ... 4_116.html
Found this site, and it is really of an interest to all those who need any type of seals and bearings!
Now waiting to the parts to come (it takes long )to reunite the box again, hoping I should have enough free time
Some piccies:




And a particular thing that I am keen of is that the reverse idler gear is not of the flat theet type! This g box has a curved reverse gear theet and when reversing there will be NO whinning (because of flat theet hitting each other) and the reverse gear gets in even if the veichel is not brought to a full stop, because of the syromeshed gear!! Try to observe it , and compare the difference to a flat thooted type reverse gear.

[Luke]

well organised mate if it was me i'd have bits all over the floor

[redeemer]

No mate !! Thats because I hade done a total cleanout before starting which took me more time than to open the box

[redeemer]

well had some time the other week and began asembling back the box after new oil seals and the main shaft bearings arrived .
To recon the box the selectors have their tricky part:
to assable them the 4th 3rd selector has to be engaged in 4th positsion, and the other two must be engaged in the 5th and first gear respectively.
this is because the gear box has a mechanisim that allows the user to only shift one selector fork at a time.
What you need is a little patience since everything has to be asembeled at once , better having someone to help.







When I asembeled the front housing to the rest of the box , I used a block of wood and a hammer to get it in as I have no ford tool
but the big circlip wont get in its groove because the shaft wanted to move a few more mm...
this is what I done using basic tools.



Finaly the box is ready to be changed with mine's.

[redeemer]

AS a hint for those who have to remove the spigot bearing which is located in the rear of the crank shaft this is the tool I had made some years ago .
:




The hole in the middle is where this bearing is located and to remove it for some its a pain in the a**, but by making this would be a lot more easier.



Then the angle is not so long as shown so it can be inserted from the small hole ,
and then just hammer with that piece as shown, and anything which has some weight can be used for that purpose.

[Luke]

well done mate

[redeemer]

Is it a usual case of a new rear crank oil seal leaking ??
Because when the van is left overnight I found a puddle of engine oil
Don't know if its the sump gasket but its new also as I did my turbo conversion.

Also one more question, What else would be the cause of vibration as the 4th or fifth gears are selected and the engine is not reving that much? The center cardanshaft bearing is new , the gearbox is reconditioned with new bearings , and new spigot bearing???
Don' t know what might be causing vibration

[Luke]

Is it a usual case of a new rear crank oil seal leaking ??

yes thats a common fault - and it can cause the clutch judder but not the vibration in 4th and 5th

[redeemer]

Ohh god A new original ford seal thought it will be okay.
For now I will keep toping it up

[AndyG]

well finaly I had some time and removed the selectors forks and was able to take the whole g box in parts.
Now I have ordered a main shaft bearing that fit right after the 4th gear, and spigot bearing that fits in the rear of the crank shaft from http://www.transmission-rebuild-kits.co ... 4_116.html
Found this site, and it is really of an interest to all those who need any type of seals and bearings!
Now waiting to the parts to come (it takes long )to reunite the box again, hoping I should have enough free time
Some piccies:




And a particular thing that I am keen of is that the reverse idler gear is not of the flat theet type! This g box has a curved reverse gear theet and when reversing there will be NO whinning (because of flat theet hitting each other) and the reverse gear gets in even if the veichel is not brought to a full stop, because of the syromeshed gear!! Try to observe it , and compare the difference to a flat thooted type reverse gear.

And people say that automatics are complicated

Good work redeemer

[redeemer]

The dificult part was to reaseble it, and there was no helper with me. I had to hold the input shaft, mainshaft , the fifth gear from moving, selectors, layshaft etccc, all between two hands
but the princple is the same as other boxes..

[manandvan]

hello, regarding d.i. engine mounts and cracked bell housings:: this is just my opinion and experience o.k. !
ive found the type which extend rearwards to the bell housing are more often the cause of cracked bell housing because the never meet the bellhousing perfectly square on, i personally wouldnt use this type or would grind of the rearward facing portion, i find the bell housing is strong enough without as was the case in the earlier models circa 92/93.